How to replace dampers

Where dampers are located

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If dampers are worn or damaged, they can significantly affect the vehicle's ride comfort, cornering ability, braking performance, and even lead to uneven tyre wear. Additionally, a defective damper can cause a car to fail a roadworthiness test.

In the modern automotive landscape, telescopic dampers are not designed for at-home repairs. The only maintenance that can typically be performed is the replacement of rubber bushes (refer to Car Glove Box Drawstring Damper for more information). If you notice any leakage, physical damage, or excessive wear, it is essential to replace the failing dampers with new units.

Replacing dampers is generally a straightforward task and can often be accomplished with a few medium-sized ring spanners or ratchet sockets. If your vehicle features combined coil-spring and damper units, you will additionally require spring compressors; if you do not have these, they can typically be rented from a tool hire shop. It is crucial to exercise caution when working with compressed springs, as makeshift compressors can fail and cause serious harm by releasing the spring suddenly.

In vehicles equipped with MacPherson-strut suspension, you have the option to replace just the damper inserts (instructions can be found under Teao). However, it is critical to always replace dampers in pairs, at both the front and rear axles, to maintain balanced handling characteristics. You can purchase dampers from automotive accessory retailers or order them through authorized dealers; make sure to provide the correct car make, model, year, and chassis number, as some models may utilize different dampers based on the body style.

When purchasing standard dampers for a specific vehicle model, there are often options with varied performance ratings available, allowing for adjustments based on handling and load-bearing needs. If you're considering upgraded dampers, consult with a suspension specialist at your local accessory shop for tailored advice.

Front suspension layout

Front dampers and coil springs can often be found integrated into an upper wishbone suspension arm.

Many contemporary vehicles feature a front suspension system characterized by an upper wishbone-shaped arm attached to the inner wing or an outrigger, along with a lower wishbone arm affixed to the chassis. Typically, dampers are installed between the lower wishbone arm and the inner wing or outrigger, although in some cases, the lower mounting may actually attach to the upper wishbone.

In wishbone suspensions incorporating a coil spring, the damper is frequently situated within the spring yet can still be removed without disassembling the spring. On certain cars, when the coil spring and damper are combined, disassembly of the spring is necessary to replace the damper. In some cases, particularly where the coil spring rests on the upper wishbone, it's necessary to compress the spring before removing the damper.

Regardless of whether your vehicle has coil-spring or torsion-bar suspension, always ensure you lift the lower wishbone to relieve tension from the damper bolts before attempting to detach the damper from the vehicle.

Undoing and reassembling damper mountings

For mountings secured by a single nut, use self-locking grips to hold the flat or squared end of the pin while you loosen the nut with a spanner.

The upper pin mounting is typically the threaded end of the damper piston rod and may feature one or two securing nuts. Prior to unscrewing, make a note of the arrangement of washers and rubbers on each side of the body panel where it is mounted, and measure the amount of thread protruding above the top nut; this measurement must be the same when reattaching the damper.

If there are two securing nuts, hold the lower one with an open-ended spanner while unscrewing the upper nut with a second spanner.

When installing new dampers, regardless of whether they are pin or eye mountings, always utilize the new rubbers, washers, spacers, and nuts included with the replacement parts; ensure they are arranged in the same order as observed during disassembly. Some nuts might require tightening to a specific torque setting, so check with a dealer or refer to your vehicle's service manual. In the case of two nuts, the torque setting pertains to the first lower nut, while the second operates as a locknut.